July 12, 2022
The Universal Fit Guide
A Quick Guide to Decode Menswear Jargon
Men everywhere often run into many of the same challenges when shopping for clothes, frequently making it feel like a chore, or at worst, a dreadful experience. With the exception of the fashion savvy and industry pros who inherently understand how brands and retailers work, it almost feels as if many brands and retailers are going out of their way to make it hard to find the right size and fit for the rest of us. If you've ever felt this way, you're far from alone, but why exactly is this the case in the first place?
At the core of the problem is the fact that there's no standard sizing, terminology or even a standard set of rules that the apparel industry adheres to. Size and fit is left to each brand to define, and how they choose to label their products often has as much to do with marketing as it does with guiding customers to their ideal size and fit. Simply put, some brands don't want to be associated with certain words or may want their products to portray a certain image. In the world of fashion, staying "on brand" often supersedes the desire to be clear and easy-to-understand. As a result of these factors, one brand's medium is another brand's XL. One brand's "semi-slim fit" is another brand's "modern fit". And the list goes on.
To make sense of this mess, Gotengo has worked with different brands to create a guide that can act as a fashion glossary of the most popular fits in menswear. Hopefully, once equipped with this guide, shopping for the right fit won't be so tough!
The Extra-Slim Fit
Reserved mainly for men who find the generic "Slim Fit" to be too big, the "Extra-Slim Fit" is the solution to a problem that lean men have been facing since the dawn of time. Choose Extra-Slim if you want clothing to contour the body, leaving no slack in the back, arms, and waist.
The Filbrodie from Tiger of Sweden is an example of an Extra-Slim Fit dress shirt.
The Slim Fit
Synonym: European Fit
A popular choice for business/office attire and great for men ranging from a lean to average-build. "Slim Fit" fits the body closely, but is never meant to be tight. Often out of fear, men with average builds steer clear of slim fit (assuming it is meant for a slim/thin body type), but in fact, a slim fitting jacket, pant, or shirt is more flattering because it adds definition, rather than loosely draping over the body. For tops (blazers, jackets, shirts, sweaters, polos, t-shirts, etc.), a slim fit will always be slimmer in the sleeves too. The term "Slim Fit" is pretty popular, so the interpretation of this fit is fairly universal.
The Farrell Shirt from Tiger of Sweden - a Slim Fit dress shirt perfect for the office.
The Semi-Slim Fit
Synonyms: Modern Fit/Contemporary Fit/Tapered Fit/Athletic Fit
The "Semi-Slim Fit" was born out of the need to find a compromise between a classic fitting looser piece of clothing and the sleeker European fit. Understanding that not everyone is in great shape, brands created an in-between fit and it quickly caught on. The term "Semi-Slim" seemed intimidating, or just unappealing to some brands, so many quickly adopted names like "Modern", "Contemporary","Tapered", and "Athletic" fit for this new fit type. Dominating the sportswear space now, the "Semi-Slim Fit" works for most body types. For those with a bit of stomach, the "Semi-Slim Fit" is the way to go for those wanting the European look, but maybe haven't quite gotten around to burning off the love handles.
This fit is also called an "Athletic Fit" targeting the muscular man with a smaller waist. Often looser in areas like shoulders, upper arms, thighs, and knees, this fit always tapers in a bit in the waist, ensuring that if you’re after an outfit with definition, this is it.
Bruun & Stengade's BS Ebruma offers an ideal compromise between a regular fit and slim fit shirt.
The Regular Fit
Synonyms: Classic Fit/Tailored Fit
The "Regular Fit" refers to the American "standard", where the body of the article is neither loose or tapered to the body. In an era when clothing was less fitted and more generic, the regular fit was king. Sitting in the middle of all of the fits, the "Regular Fit" is a safe bet for those unsure about the other fits. It will never go out of style and works for almost every body type. Men with a larger midsection should opt for "Regular Fit" for dress clothes.
Matinique's Regular Fit Trostol BU is a great option for the workplace.
The Trostol Band Collar Linen Shirt is a great Regular Fit weekend look from Matinique.
These days, wearing less fitted clothing has become trendy, with those at the forefront of fashion wearing the larger fits described below. The majority of men who are choosing to adopt this trend are migrating from a "Slim Fit" to "Regular Fit" for their casual and weekend attire.
Here are the two most common larger fits:
The Relaxed Fit
Synonym: Loose Fit
With looser fitting clothing being a popular trend, more and more men are embracing the look and choosing the "Relaxed Fit". Comfort factor is a definite benefit to wearing looser fitting clothes, so it’s one upside to a "Relaxed Fit". For tops, relaxed fits sometimes see a dropped shoulder, where the shoulder seam sits lower than your actual shoulder.
The body of a "Relaxed Fit" is not so big that you can fit a whole other you in there, but it certainly means that if you were to size down, the smaller size would probably still fit. With relaxed fits, the brand has designed the item to be worn big, so buying your usual size should achieve the relaxed/looser style the brand intended.
When it comes to summer attire, looser fitting garments tend to be popular regardless of trends, so it’s likely you may find garments in your closet using this fit.
The Didon Shirt from Tiger of Sweden is roomy, comfortable Relaxed Fit shirt.
The Oversized Fit
The "Oversized Fit" takes the "Relaxed Fit" and exaggerates the proportions to the point that you can usually size down multiple sizes and it would still fit (though if you want to achieve the exaggerated look of the style, you probably want to buy in your usual size).
For tops, the fabric usually does not gather anywhere up top, but rather drapes to create volume. Oversized tops are often also long (though super trendy pieces might be oversized and cropped).
Oversized pants and jeans are often styled to gather at the hem, with a good amount of bunching of the fabric at the ankles.
When it comes to dress attire, oversized apparel is usually limited to social events, and is rarely appropriate for the average office/workplace.
Tiger of Sweden's Ruiku Shirt shows off the exaggerated proportions of the Oversized Fit.
Which fit works best for you? Check out Gotengo's recommendations personalized for you. As more fits become more mainstream, or new names get adopted, be sure to check back for an update of this guide!